Friday, April 15, 2011

"Yeah, but we’re on vacation."


If there’s been a theme to our time in Mendoza, this is it. Every time we started to doubt our decisions about that other glass of wine, a nap, buying something, or dessert we just reassure each other that this is vacation and we deserve it. Imagine if I used that reasoning when I’m by myself all the time? I would have had to come home a long time ago.

We were a bit overwhelmed with what to do in Mendoza as there is no shortage of amazing options. We sat in our room yesterday with brochures spread over the beds taking turns with the Lonely Planet trying to figure it out. Andes and vineyards. We knew we had to experience these two legendary aspects of Mendoza. Bike wine tour, luxury wine tour, adventure Andes expedition, bus tour, this company, that company, etc. It’s a different experience for me to have a partner to make such decisions with, and we laughed at how difficult it was to come to these seemingly simple conclusions.

With the help of the Internet and recommendations from my friend Dipal (thanks Deeps), we decided on the full-day Alta Montana tour on Thursday and the full-day vineyard tour on Friday.

With the help of three alarms we awoke early yesterday, breakfasted, and jumped on the 20-person tour bus. We spent the next approximately 11 hours winding through the mountains, taking in the great outdoors. I’m happy to say my love of the outdoors is still alive after having spent some time back in city life. Luckily I listened to the concierge and traded in my sandals and thin hoodie for my heavy fleece and hikers because the weather got more crisp as we climbed eventually to 10,500 ft elevation to see the Christ the Redeemer statue that stands as a peace-keeper on the border of Chile and Argentina.

We stopped on the way back down for a home-cooked comfort food lunch where we enjoyed some traditional Argentine dishes and one of my favorites, corn on the cob. The separated tour group got more friendly and boisterous as the red wine flowed. Exhausted from the elevation, we napped most of the 3-hour ride back to the hotel until we were awoken by a young chap barfing all over himself behind us. Poor guy. After a quick stop to use the toilets and disinfect the bus we arrived home exhausted from such a tough day of bus riding. We enjoyed a cheese plate "for 2" that we could have shared with 5 of our closest friends and talked about life, love, and the pursuit of happiness.

This morning we were up and at em early again for our full-day vineyard tour. 4 wineries, 4 tastings each followed by a 5-course lunch/wine pairing at the last. Have you ever started drinking wine at 10:30am? It makes for a very quickly close-knit tour group. 

Now we’re once again in the comfort of our black leather first-class bus seats heading back to BsAs. My how time flies.


back in the great outdoors


eyebrows
loved these bathroom signs...lindas y feos
fresh water action

slightly off balance


switch backs

yay peace
it was pretty cold up there

warming up on the bus

comfort food lunch

vineyard owner's private stash
10:30am white wine tasting - the new day drinking
barrels
vintage
grapes
grape separation
we got to mix and create our own wines
i am so classy it hurts

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Holy Cow

i still step in dog poop from time to time

I’ve left my smart packing, budget traveling self behind this week. After a touristy weekend in Buenos Aires, Jane and I arrived in Mendoza this morning in style. In booking our bus travel on Monday night we decided to pay the extra $20US for the first-class overnight bus. I don’t know if I can ever go back.

We boarded the bus Tuesday night and were giggling like little girls as we fell into the plush leather seats, reclining back and up again testing the various comfort possibilities. We placed our shoes in the “shoe bags”, lost the game of bus Bingo, ate dinner complete with unlimited wine and champagne, watched a movie, played on the wi-fi enabled internet, and finally reclined our full beds to sleep soundly for the night.

We were greeted in Mendoza by some serious winds which made enjoying the city a bit of a challenge. We walked around shielding our heads from falling tree branches, our mouths from dust-induced asthma and after a few hours took solace in our hotel room. Yes. I said hotel, not hostel. Thanks to Jane, I’m living in style at the Aconcagua Hotel, and it’s lovely. When we arrived she remarked the room was a bit small, but for me, sharing a small room with only one other person sans bunk beds is sheer luxury. I took a nap to refresh my dusty eyes, and we researched our options for dinner.

Jane’s friend had recommended a restaurant called 1884, and we decided to go for it. We hopped in a cab and were somewhat confused 15 minutes later when the driver stopped in front of a large cement nondescript building. Jane and I exchanged weary glances as a security guard emerged from behind an iron gate and asked if we had a reservation. Luckily the answer was yes. As soon as he confirmed my name on the list the iron gates opened and the cab drove us into what I can only describe as a castle-like structure. It felt like we were on a big secret, the kind of place where you half expected some big fat Italian guy to ask you for the secret password. But there was no password collector, and we were allowed to enter the beautiful restaurant. 

We had read a review online that we should order the steak for 2, and that it was big even by Argentine standards. Jane hadn’t had her Argentine steak yet, so there was no question that was the thing to do. When the waitress set the “plate” down in front of us we just started hysterically laughing as the entire restaurant turned toward us, laughing as well. The steak was i longer than the length of my entire arm and thicker than my 9th grade math book. It was ridiculous. They should advertise the steak as fit for 10 people to eat (Jane says 4 is more realistic, but I like to think big). A neighboring diner told us that if we could finish the entire thing our meal was on the house. As if.

We ate as much as we could, laughing through the whole dinner, entering soon after into content meat-induced comas. Peter Lugar has nothing on 1884.

recoleta cemetery


dogs
more cemetery shots
don't cry for her argentina
after a long search we finally found the tourist bus!
BsAs
the traditional headphone shot
me in jane's hotel room...my botched bangs are still a bit crazy but are getting better
fruit
art
my favorite bag. cannot let it RIP yet. sewing skills at the bus station
this is what luxury looks like
my bag after...with character


put your shoes in the bag
dinner
the park in mendoza - fighting off the winds

steak out

doesn't even look like we just ate a whole cow
 

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Am I still Traveling?

Buenos Aires feels like home. I have my own room in Pati´s apartment. I have friends. I have real shoes because I went shopping for some good fall/going out shoes. I bought them. And also ended up with the most beautiful pair of high heels. Because I need heels for budget backpack travel. I didn´t even wear heels in my ¨real¨ life in New York. But they´re beautiful, and I´m in Buenos Aires, and I bought them and I love them.

Buenos Aires has an energy similar to that of New York City. It´s totally different, but has that great classic big-city vibe that you love about NYC. Like New York it´s exploding with culture - movies, theatre, restaurants, bars, cafes, whatever you want. I haven´t been blogging or journaling this week because I just feel like I´ve kind of gone back to regular life. Familiar faces, walking around for hours getting lost trying to learn the city, my own personal Buenos Aires secret-teller, Pati, the beautiful Buenos Aires Castellaño accent. I could get used to this place. I am getting used to this place. It feels ¨normal¨.

I haven´t done a lot of touristy things as I´ve been awaiting the arrival of my Aunt Jane to really take on the city. But I´ve done a lot of walking and wandering, and am truly feeling at home, getting lost less and less every day. I started Spanish classes at a small institute where I spend most of the class time in conversation with my teacher, reviewing the things I struggle with. I´ve learned all the grammar and the important thing now is talking talking talking.

Living with Pati is the best. If you remember from my visits with her in Chile, she is the 70-year-young aunt of my friend Dominique. She has invited me into her life as if I was a part of her family, accompanying me to movies and afternoon cafecitas, introducing me to her favorite spots and people in Buenos Aires, and chatting with me at night as we piece together our giant jigsaw puzzle. And though she struggles with chronic pain due to her Parkinsons, you´d never know it. She always keeps going and going and going. It´s an amazing experience. We spend a lot of time chatting, contemplating the simplicities of life, and giggling. She´s the best roommate I could ask for, and is really introducing me to BsAs in style. I can never repay her for the love and kindness she has shown me in my first week here, and I look forward to more time with her here. I never got the chance to spend adult time with my own grandmothers, and I am happy that she is so enthusiastic to share her life and history with me. If she has it her way she´ll convince me to stay here forever, and find myself a nice Argentine boy.

I´ve been moving and shaking, catching up with friends from the road who are ¨stationed¨ here now, hitting up the film festival, learning the art of the Argentine late night, and trying to figure out how people can still peg me for a gringa even if I don´t say anything in English or Spanish. I feel like I belong here.

Jane arrived today and we passed the time lunching at a fabulous French bistro, browsing the incredible San Telmo market, and lamenting how it seems like yesterday we were having dinner in NYC and I was just embarking on this journey. I´m glad she is able to visit with me, and we are going to explore this city until we fall down.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

When you dance, you should dance your face off.

Arriving in Buenos Aires was exciting for a multitude of reasons...

a. it´s Buenos Aires
b. a lot of people I´ve met traveling are currently here which means I have an immediate posse
c. I get to stay with La Pati in Recoleta
d. Jane is coming to visit next week
e. it´s Buenos Aires and I have been dreaming about it for a loooong time. I was in love with it like I was in love with Spain long before I visited.

...but one of the most exciting reasons was this guy:


you might not recognize him for 2 reasons...

1. you don´t know him
2. he has gained some weight, having learned how to enjoy food and meals again, shed some stress, and is adjusting to a life without advertising for the time being

Jerome left his job as an ECD at Wieden a few months ago to embark on a 6-month journey around the world. By chance, our itineraries matched up in Buenos Aires. I was so excited to get to see a really good friend who knows me well along the way. On Saturday afternoon he came to my posh Recoleta apartment that isn´t by any means mine, and we jumped up and down and hugged and talked excitedly about the fact that we´re both in Buenos Aires, don´t have jobs, and have absolutely no clue what we´re going to do with our lives.

We quickly set out to explore the city, Jerome schooling me on the ways of BsAs from his 3 days of experience, and me educating him on the ways of solo travel. After buying a pair of fake Ray Bans, which I´ve been looking for since a disasterous and expensive sunglasses mistake in Sao Paulo, we headed to Palermo to have an epic Argentine parilla-style lunch at Don Julio. We spent a good three hours at lunch. It was like we couldn´t tell each other everything fast enough, and we never ran out of good stuff to talk about. Mostly we laughed a lot, and Jerome admitted he had been nervous to see me.

Why would he be nervous to see me? My sentiments exactly. Before Jerome left his apartment that afternoon, his friend told him that seeing me was like a window into his traveling future. Either it would be a sign that life on the road is good, or it would be me giving him a desperate hug and bursting into tears because it´s so horrible. He was relieved to see a tanned and energetic me greet him at the door, jumping up and down with excitement. Thing is, Jerome is a window into the me that has developed in the last 5 months, too. Though I´ve met new people on this trip, skyped with some peeps, and reunited with some travel buddies, no one who really KNOWS me has seen me (except in my pictures on my incredibly interesting and witty blog of course). I don´t feel that different. But hearing his reaction to the relaxed, good energied me was positive. He told me that while I´ve always been a somewhat laid back and energetic person who always got along with people, blah, blah, blah, there were often times in my days at Wieden when I had an underlying anger or frustration in my demeanor. He told me I was just emanating positive energy and happiness, and that he was happy that I was happy. I was happy that he was happy that I was happy, too. I´m never going back to ¨real life¨.

After lunch I used my Spanish skills to buy him some Malaria pills for the Amazon though we´re convinced the pill side affects would kill him before the Malaria We parted ways and made plans to meet up for the evening.

On the days before my arrival in BsAs, we had been figuring out plans via Facebook messages since I am old school now and don´t have a phone (Jerome´s iPhone will keep him less lost than me over the next  months). Probably the best plan idea he sent was the following..

We should try to do an all night dance party by the way. You in??

Am I in? Who am I? Of course I´m in. I´m a dance party conneseiur. I couldn´t have thought of a better plan myself. We decided to meet up with my friends, Portlanders Nelle and Derek, and head out in search of said dance party. All of this obviously after I took a nap so I could hang for a Buenos Aires late night. After some Fernet and Coke at their place, which tastes like someone ashed cigarettes in your mouth, we found ourselves standing in Palermo perusing the clubs. That´s something I never thought I´d say. Well, both those things, but that I was actively looking to go to a club. I despise all the ¨club¨ experiences I´ve ever had in New York. So pretensious. So dressed up. So dumb. But clubs are the way to dancing here, so I´m into clubs I guess.

We chose the club with the most people outside, figuring it was better than the one next door with no one, and waited our turn to be let past the velvet rope. The club was called Wet, which Jerome had to explain to me because it was arranged like this, and I couldn´t put it all together...

 W
ET

I credit that to Jerome´s closer proximity to the real world. It´s not because I´m dumb or something.

Anyway, the first floor of the joint was less than inspiring, blasting slower-paced cumbia music. But we had been droning on and on about a dance party, and damn it, we were going to dance. And dance we did when we discovered the cooler, less crowded, electronic music pumping second floor. Who would have thought I would ever get excited about electronic music? But I was, and man did we dance. We danced like no one was watching. We danced like it was going out of style. We danced until the cows came home. However you want to say it, we went crazy dancing, sweating and flailing all over the place. And we were free. And we laughed. And then it was 6am and we were exhausted.

I am so excited for Jerome and his journey. I´m so excited for me and my continued journey. I can´t wait to meet up with him when we´re both back stateside (not that I want to wish that time to go too quickly) and share more stories about our travels, and to see where we both end up at the end of it, assuming we both end up stateside.

derek, nelle, jerome, me danced out

my sweet new $5 ¨Ray Bans¨

Saturday, April 2, 2011

I’m in love with Buenos Aires and I don’t even know her

24 hours. That’s all it took. I love her energy. I love her language. I love her vibe. I love everything I don’t even know about her.

Friday, April 1, 2011

It´s a Hard Knock Life

When I was 15, Juliana came from Brazil to share bunk beds in my Michael Jordan-clad room in Indiana. When I was 29, I came to Brazil and slept in her childhood room in San Jose. Who would have thought?

I arrived back in Sao Paulo late Thursday night after a perfect day on the beach in Copacabana. I took most of Friday to catch up on the sleep I lost in Rio, and Friday evening the U Team and I took the 3-hour drive to Ju’s hometown so I could finally meet her family.

We arrived at 11:30pm, and her parents greeted us with hugs and kisses, and from the first moment treated me like I was their long-lost American daughter. We had a late dinner, and as Ju and I crawled into our twin beds in her room we laughed about how we never thought it would happen. Thank you Facebook.

Saturday morning after a gargantuan breakfast (you see Ju is trying to return the weight gain favor since she gained 5 kilos back in the day) we walked out back to soak up more rays at the pool. We passed the day there, dance partying, chatting, and just relaxing. In the late afternoon it started pouring rain, and I serenaded everyone with a lovely rendition of “Singin’ in the Rain” until Ju shut me up by pushing me into the pool.

After dinner and a special night tour with Ju and her mom we had family time watching movies, exhausted by our hard work at the pool.

Sunday we headed to their farm house where I met more of the extended family and we passed another tough day poolside. Then I got my first futbol experience. The guys watched the game intently rooting for Sao Paulo as the gals sat and chatted about more important things. As the game ended with SP on top I went outside to enjoy the sun setting on another flawless Brazilian day.

Back in SP it was time for me to see the city. Just when I thought I’d eaten the whole country of Brazil, and no one will ever find me attractive again, a stalker found me in a park and proceeded to follow me around SP for hours until I get all James Bond on him evaded his creeper status.

 I reunited with Luce from my Rio posse on Wednesday and we played a little game we like to call “Get Lost in a Big City”, which resulted in more unnecessary but enjoyable shopping. Wednesday night I had dinner with my NYC friend Carol, a native Brazilian who recently moved back to Sao Paulo. It was so nice to see another familiar face, and she laughed at me as men at the bar tried to hit on me and I was none the wiser.

Thursday Rio posse member Anita joined us and we lunched on free meats, cheeses, and fruits at the Mercado Municipal until we had our fill, a budget traveler’s dream. After a day full of perusing cheap jewelry stores on Avenida 25 de Mayo, we bid each other adieu, knowing we’ll meet again in our travels

I came home Thursday night for an impromptu gift exchange with Ju  where I received 3 more pairs of Havianas for a grand total of 5. We laughed about it as we ate a dinner of chocolate cake and chocolate “bombs”. Despite our best efforts for a dance-filled club night out, a failed 2-hour car ride search for the best dance party ended with us in bed before 1. It’s the thought that counts.

Where did March go?

View of the Souza house
Ju, Me, My Brazilian Mom

singin in the rain

when she pushed me in i took her with me

Luma and I

my Brazilian dad, and the biggest dog i´ve ever seen. i want one.

he´s so sweet!

view from the farm house - sun and rain again

sunset

you can´t make this up, folks

taking it all in

acai - one of the things I will miss most about Brazil

ladies night dinner - possibly the best pizza I´ve ever had

a blurry photo of our free lunch date at the market - anita, me, leus

my shopping partner in crime

gift exchange

holy havianas

dinner of champions

sisters - our matching virgo necklaces to commemorate the are you a virgin moment