Salsa-Dancing Machismo Family Christmas

Machismo. Big in Guatemala. I can´t believe they kiss their wives and girlfriends with those mouths!

Wednesday morning a man almost got hit by a car because he was gawking at me, making inappropriate gestures and comments. I can now say I stop traffic with my looks. Funny. I spend a lot of my time here cursing at men under my breath, or flipping them off with my hands in my pockets.

I have been trying to decide if there is anything I like about the machismo culture. I found the answer at Salsa class on Tuesday night. I was paired with an American guy to practice some moves. I´ll call him "Dr. Serious Salsa Guy Who Doesn´t Really Dance Well Enough To Be So Serious" or DSSGWDRDWEBSS for short. Or maybe just fish hands. His handshake is one that would exasperate my dad. He hates weak handshakes. If Pete Kraft shook this man´s hand, he would not be pleased.

In Salsa, the man ¨drives¨ the woman, pushing and pulling with his hands to direct the lady dancer where to go next. It´s important to be strong in order to move effortlessly across the floor. This guy was so passive, his limp hands holding mine. It was a disaster. Also, he was taking life a little too seriously, because when he would ¨direct¨ and I wouldn´t follow, he would stop, roll his eyes, and say, in his best condescending-non-good-dancer-voice, "you´re doing everything wrong". I just laughed because at the time I had just finished spinning myself into a wall. He didn´t pick up on the humor of the situation. But every time the teacher stepped in to show me how to do it right, I nailed it. Who´s the weakest link?

Wednesday Hayley and I went back for another class. I´m actually kind of good at Salsa dancing. I just need to learn how to be a little more graceful with my hip movement. As the teacher, Aela, says, I´m putting a little too much shoulder action into it. Wednesday night we tried our moves at Salsa night at the Disco, and in my opinion, brought the house down.

Everything came together this week. My teacher, Ana, was the best I´ve had. We have so much fun every day, finding a balance between giggling and productivity. She invited me to help her set up the Nativity Scene at the school on Wednesday. Weput brick wrapping paper on the wall and table, to make it chimney-like, then covered the table in greenery, setting up the houses and the church. All of the buildings and pieces of the scene are made by the poor people in the community, and they sell them at the market. The whole setup is really beautiful and simple. I was happy she let me be a part of it.

It has been record-breakingly freezing here this week, and I have quite the cold. When I could hardly breathe in class, Ana took me into the kitchen to fix it. We heated up some water, adding copious amounts of salt. Then she took me outside where I got down on my knees, tilted my head back, and she spooned hot salt water down/up my nose, a home-made netti pot of sorts. I have been breathing perfectly ever since.

Ana and I have had some fascinating conversations. We have talked a lot about the role of women here and how it´s starting to change, ever so slowly. In talking about relationships and marriage, I said I would like to live with someone before we get married. She said she understood that logic, but laughed comparatively. She dated her husband for 8 years, and in that time never once visited him in his home. Forget about the lack of physical relationship. She couldn´t even go there to watch TV or have dinner with him for fear of bringing shame upon her family. It´s just one of the many differences in our realities, and I´m so thankful to have the forum for these conversations.

I have bonded with my family this week in ways I didn´t know were possible. We´ve had long dinners everynight, always ending in hysterical laughter. The girls come by my room on a daily basis to chat and check in. We have all become so comfortable living together, and now that we´ve finally figured it out, it´s time for me to go.

Lilian and Brenda came to my room Thursday evening after dinner and both gave me a gift. I was so speechless and emotional I could hardly muster up a thank you. I have promised both of them multiple times that I will keep in touch after I have gone. I know Lilian has hosted many students in the past, and I will not be the last, but I am so thankful for this experience. Their kindness, patience, and hospitality far exceeded any expectation I had. Thank heavens I got that late bus here from Antigua and I was paired with them. Things do happen for a reason.

I can´t think of a better way to have started my trip. Full Spanish immersion here has been beyond amazing, beyond humbling, beyond anything I could have wanted it to be. I will leave Xela on Sunday, looking forward to my next adventures, but with a bit of a heavy heart leaving the Ramos family.

Ruth, the other teacher, and I by the Nativity Scene

Helping set up the Christmas tree with the kids

Christmas decorations

my gifts from Lilian and Brenda

Doris - teacher week 1

Ruth - teacher week 2

Rosario - teacher week 3 (this picture with her eyes closed is so perfect, because that´s how she was every class, just paying no attention, clearly bored)

Ana - teacher week 4