kellita the señorita the ibby dibby dow: Channeling Pippi Longstocking, Barefoot in Paradise

I just spent 3 days in PARADISE. Barefoot in paradise. Do you know how hard it is to leave a barefoot paradise?

I left my hostel in Taganga early Wednesday morning with my backpack packed FULL and took a micro to Santa Marta. I took everything with me knowing I had to hike into the park, and that my body would not be thankful for that decision. But when I asked the hostel if I could leave things behind they said that yes I could, but they couldn't be held responsible for my things. So I took it all. The micro driver did not like me. I'm not exactly sure why. But we just didn't hit it off. After I loaded my overstuffed pack onto the bus, he charged me double the fare. When I asked why he pointed to my beloved backpack. I told him I would sit on it to pay only one fare. He wasn't having it. Bad way to start. But whatever. I asked him to let me know when we reached the market in Santa Marta, where I needed to take the bus to the park entrance. When we were a good ways into the town, he looked at me as if I was the dumbest person in the world, saying, "didn't you want to get off at the market?" We had passed it about 10 blocks ago. He smirked as I got off the bus to backtrack. I held my tongue from lashing out in my best practiced Spanish cusswords and started walking. On the walk, I met the acquaintance of Fernando from Buenos Aires, and we chatted the whole bus ride to the park entrance, with the bus door open, cool wind in our faces.

Upon arrival to the park, we paid the entrance fee and chose to walk the 5K to the main entrance instead of the shuttle. We were both happy to be in nature and hiking. Because I haphazardly packed my bag, the weight was uneven and uncomfortable. Because I carried in food for the next days, it wasn't the normal packing perfection I was used to. I knew it would be a rough hike but totally worth it upon arrival. I watched in jealousy as people all around me carried in small daypacks. Thank god for Fernando, who carried my large 5 liter water so I could carry my human-sized pack without that extra weight. It was a beautiful day, and the sun wasn't too strong, which made the hike easier. We arrived at the entrance, took a moment to breathe and then hiked the next 4K to the campground. Fernando walked in front announcing the downhill parts so I had something to look forward to as I hiked uphill.

Around 2:30pm, we arrived at the first campground, Arrecifes. There are two main camping areas in the park - Arrecifes and Cabo San Juan. I decided to stay at Arrecifes because I couldn't imagine another 45 minutes with that damn pack. Fernando continued on. I was pleased that a campsite with my own tent was only a fraction of the price I had originally thought, and went to setting up my tent. I chose a spot right by the footpath to the beach so I would be as close as possible to the ocean and would be able to hear the waves at night. Unbelievable. I set up camp and immediately headed for the beach in the overcast weather.

The beach directly in front of Arrecifes has a super strong undertow, and a sign announcing that more than 100 brave swimmers have died there deters anyone from swimming there. I walked the 20 minutes to a swimmable beach, La Piscina. I worked up a good sweat, and was more than happy to dive into the calm crystal clear water when I arrived. I spend a good few hours on the beach reading and swimming before heading back to camp.

On the path back to my tent, I spotted a mule and a monkey. Though I was apprehensive at first, they let me pass without incident, and I sat down at a picnic table to read my book. After about 5 minutes I looked up to see that the mule had come up the path and was slowly moving closer to me, so close that he was standing beside me practically with his snout in my face sniffing me. I was a little uneasy, and started to slowly move down the bench. With each slow movement I made, the mule inched closer. I was laughing to myself at the moment when the monkey came running full-speed out of the forrest and landed on top of the table 3 inches from my face. Even though I should have been happy to feel like Pippi Longstocking with the two animals, I jumped up, totally freaked out saying "ok guys, this is a little much", still laughing to myself. And they kept inching closer until I let out a little yelp for someone to help me. A couple guys from the neighboring campsite came over, and one of them simply picked up the monkey and gave me a look as if to say, "you stupid girl, he's not going to hurt you". Then a group of campers surrounded the table and for 30 minutes we took turns petting the animals and taking photos. Slowly the crowd dispersed and the animals went away. I sat down again to read.

All of a sudden out of nowhere, the monkey came bounding over again, jumping into my lap and seizing the book from my hands. I jumped up as he started to drag it away, chewing the pages. I didn't think it was funny anymore. I was legitimately frightened and grabbed the book away, but the monkey didn't let up. It was like he knew the game. Act cute and make everyone love you, then fuck with the stupid gringos. I climbed into my tent, which seemed the only safe place at that moment. Lies. The monkey came over to the tent, and started beating on all sides trying to get to me. I sat in the middle of the tent repeating in a mix of English and Spanish "estas jodiendome", "what the fuck am I supposed to do", and, "seriously, is this a joke?". This went on for about 5 minutes until I thought he had finally gone. But no, now he was backing away from the tent, taking a running start, and trying to climb up the poles of the tent. I laughed out loud, a crazy sort of frightened laugh from the inside as I watched the abuse of my tiny child-size tent. After a few tries of flinging himself to and from, he finally succeeded in climbing to the top of my tent. Then, the smart little animal removed the rain flap so he was peering at me from the mesh window as if to say, "ha ha idiot, I found you". Once he saw me inside he began to chew at the tent to try to get inside. I could think of nothing worse at that moment than that monkey and I locked in my tent as he tried to eat everything I owned and fight me. It was legitimately HILARIOUS even though I was freaking out. I didn't want to hurt the little guy, but began to shake and move the tent until he eventually fell off (not without a grand fight). I heard him scurry off then, and heard my neighbors laughing hysterically. I sat in that tent for a good 30 minutes, laughing out loud, tears streaming down my face. Finally I poked my head out and asked the guys next door if the monkey had gone. When I was certain, I emerged, and kept a watchful eye the rest of the night. Thankfully I slept soundly to the sound of the waves crashing in the distance around 8:30pm and had no more monkey business that first day.

I woke up on Thursday to the sun shining in my window. One of the things I love most about camping is sleeping and waking according to the sun. I had a nice leisurely little breakfast before heading out to explore the next beach, Cabo San Juan. Again, the sky was overcast most of the day, but it was the a perfect breezy day on the beach. I walked the 45 minutes barefoot through the woods and beaches to Cabo San Juan where I ran into Carol and Lisa, who I had met in Cartagena previously. We spent the day reading on the beach, and it was perfect. We headed back around 3:30, and I continued reading, keeping a watchful eye for wild animals. I had seen the monkey earlier that day, and ran in the opposite direction pitying the tourists who tried to get close to him. I knew better. Back at my campsite, I met Erwin from Medellín. After telling him of the rice and beans I pre-cooked to eat the 3 days in the park, he informed me that couldn't be a good idea, and invited me to eat dinner in the campsite restaurant. I accepted, grateful for the offer. We took a walk to the beach for a late afternoon swim, and had a lovely evening eating amazing food and trying to find turtles on the beach at night without luck. I ate coconut rice and fish wrapped in banana leaves with avocado salad. Amazing!

On Friday, I was sad to see my new buddy go, but the sun was finally shining, and I literally skipped down the beach, so happy the sun had joined me for the last day. If I could define for you what was one of the most perfect days of my life, Friday was one of them. It was flawless. I ran into the girls on the beach, and we spent the day beach hopping. Upon arrival to each beach, we took a quick dip in the perfectly cold water, then spent about an hour reading, relaxing and people watching before heading to the next. The last stop was the nude beach, and when we arrived it was deserted. I've never been to a nude beach. Ever. But I'll be damned if I was going to go to one and not enjoy it. We giggled as we stripped down and I took off running for the ocean. And I will tell you. There is no feeling quite like swimming naked in the ocean or running down a beach with no clothes on. It was the most free I think I've ever felt in my life. Now I can check that off the bucket list.

Friday evening I treated myself to another great fresh seafood dinner in the restaurant before journaling and turning in early. I woke up early on Saturday to enjoy a couple last glorious hours on the beach before heading back to Santa Marta for my last long-distance bus ride for a while. I could have stayed there for years. So peaceful and so beautiful. My love affair with Colombia continues. I packed up my bags (lighter once I didn't have the extra food) and hiked out of the park. I arrived at the Santa Marta terminal to find there was a bus to Bogotá in an hour. Such luck. This traveling without any plans is really starting to suit me.

At 2:30, I boarded the 20-hour bus back to Bogotá, and happily ran into Fernando who sat next to me. So much better being on a long-distance bus with a buddy. I arrived in Bogotá yesterday morning, and will happily reunite today with some of my favorites, Nelle, Derek, Coraline and Justine for my last day in South America for awhile. It's been a damn wild ride.