Home Sweet Home

So Tracy is getting married this weekend, and I've been looking forward to this trip home for months to be a part of her special day. I woke up on Sunday, the day of my flight, ready to make it happen. I serenaded my roommates with my iPod as back-up to Springstein's classic "Born in the USA". I could hardly contain my excitement. After 2 bus rides and a 10-hour plane ride with a seatmate who didn't understand the concept of personal space, I was back in the USA after almost a year away.

I stepped up to the customs official and handed him my passport as he looked at me with an inquisitive glance.

"Where are you coming from?"
"Argentina."

"Were you anywhere else before that?"

"Also Brazil, Chile, Uruguay, and Guatemala
"What was the purpose of your travels"
"Umm...to travel?"
"What do you mean?"
"Well, umm, I mean I went to learn Spanish."
"How long have you been gone?"
"11 months"
Looks up in surprise.
"What did you do for 11 months?"
"A lot. Lived my life."
"Did you learn Spanish?"
"Yes, Sir. I think I did."

As he handed back my passport, I think he realized how excited I was, and he broke into a smile and said, "Welcome back to the United States, Ms. Kraft." And beaming, I walked away and burst into unexpected tears, but tears of happiness. 

Before hitting up Indiana, I made a pit stop in DC. Even though I'm a bi-polar decision maker, and change my mind about my next moves every day, I have been waiting for my papers from the US to apply for my visa. Thinking everything was set once my dad received my FBI background report, I realized I had to send it to DC to get it authenticated, which takes another 8-12 weeks. Instead, I decided to change up my flights and try my luck at walking into the office to have it done. 

Thanks to Momgela, it all happened. My dad sent her the paperwork overnight last week, and she met me at the office at 9am. It was much easier than we both thought, and I got to spend the day in DC with she and Bonk for a mini B&B reunion. Over brunch we caught up on the past year, and how hard it is to believe that just over a year ago, we rode our bikes across the country. Sometimes I just forget about that. Seems like a dream, which I guess it was in a way.

We spent the afternoon on the back porch drinking Mate and laughing. They made fun of me as I ran around looking for a lighter to light the electric stove. I was confused, but so were they. (If you're wondering, gas stoves with real fire are better because they heat things faster.) Bonk made us an unbelievable vegan dinner, and before I knew it I was back at the airport Tuesday for my 8am flight to Indy.

I deboarded the plane, and practically ran through the terminal searching for my dad. When he found me, I again let the tears of joy stream down my face. I was HOME. We stopped by my mom's office to say hello, and that's where it was confirmed that I came by my emotional side honestly. As we sat chatting at rapid speeds, she just kept crying, telling me how happy she was to see me home and safe and sound. The feeling was mutual. We met my brother for lunch before I went home and took a nap. I then dragged my suitcases out of the attic, creating a clothing explosion in my room. You have no idea how exciting it is to play with 3 suitcases of clothing after wearing the same 7 things for an entire year. Like Christmas in September. When Chris got home from work we had dinner at Arni's, and my brother reminded me of my hipsterness as I admired the bike parked outside when we left.

Tracy picked me up in a U-Haul yesterday bright and early so I could help her with final wedding preparations. I declined her invite to accompany her to the dentist because I HATE THE DENTIST, but we hit the ground running once her teeth were clean.

We stopped by the seamstress so I could get my super last minute dress fitting and alterations before the weekend. Susan is a magic-maker, and the built-in straps to support my oversized chest look amazing. 

I know that sometimes I'm an awkward person, but now that I'm so used to some Argentine customs, it's even worse. Every time we went to run an errand today and I met someone new (seamstress, wedding planner, etc), I made an awkward move to kiss each person on the cheek, which is the way to greet everyone here. It took me a few times to readjust myself to the handshake.

Last night we went to a surprise going-away party for Tracy's roommate Erin, who is moving to Colorado, and who I owe a lot to for getting me here this week. I have only met her a couple of times, but feel like she's one of the NOB girls and I feel like I've known her forever. She and I stayed up all night drinking wine and talking about life. 

The best thing about being home is that it's not weird at all. When I see my friends and family it's like I never left, and have been here all along. I am so excited for Knepp wedding weekend, but right now it's time to reunite with Nina!

bonk, red wine and mate

momg hiding...sorry it's sideways but i'm too lazy to change it

vegan soup

NINA PEENTZ

my favorite tracy moments. OUT.

350 and Bici Love

 My friend Robin invited me to join him and some friends to celebrate two things I love, sustainability of our planet and bicycles!

350.org is a website trying to build a global grassroots movement to solve the climate crisis. Why the number 350? Because to preserve our planet, scientists tell us we must reduce the amount of CO2 in the atmosphere from its current level of 392 parts per million to below 350 ppm. Since 2009, the website has helped to organize worldwide events to raise awareness, projects to better the planet, or demonstrations for people to take notice.

Moving Planet day is a day to ride bikes, share ideas, and educate the public about the problems facing our earth and ways we can improve the planet and our own daily lives. It took place this year today, and has over 2000 events in more than 175 countries. 

We met up on our bikes and following the bike paths to a park in Palermo. We helped put together two large banners, one with a giant 350 and the other showing bicycle love. The walls of the park had been painted by a bicycle activist group previously, but we all got to take bike-painting lessons, to add our own touch to the walls. 

The afternoon continued with music and some education. First up was a guy whose sole instruments consisted of two old-school Gameboys connected to an amp. I have never seen anything like it. I wish I would have thought of that. Next up was a more chill singer/songwriter. Later, many of the city's earth-friendly organizations got a chance to talk to us about upcoming projects, and things they're doing to help Buenos Aires to be more earth-friendly. 

It was really cool to be a part of the day. There are so many people in this city with the desire to change the world, and the balls to stand up and try to make it happen. There is so much possibility in this city, and it's so impressive to see so many young people so passionate about something, and trying to make it happen.

our 350 banner

kristin painting bikes

<3

Robin getting painting lessons

Amazing - Old School Gameboy Music

slowing it down a bit

right before this picture was one of the funniest moments EVER. There was a man inside this panda suit. He came into the park to sit down and enjoy the music. He sat down on the two paint containers, as people tried to stop him. I watched it all happen from afar, but my friends were standing behind him. When he turned around he had two huge paint marks on his butt. You know when you're not supposed to laugh and you just can't help it. And you're by yourself, and still laughing 20 minutes later? it was like that.

Second Time Around

Another 3 months have passed, and because I don't plan ahead very well in my own life, I had to leave the country again. Sometimes I'm dumb, and when I booked my ticket home to Indy for next week, I booked it exactly 92 days since the last time I left the country, 2 days over my 90-day limit. Ugh. 

You might remember that my last trip to Uruguay was a disaster, and I was miserable. After about 4 seconds in the country, my sick ass re-boarded the ferry back to my bed immediately. 

This time was a success, and it was nice to have a day out of the city to relax. I was slightly annoyed in the morning because it was freezing, but the sun came out, and it turned out to be a perfect day.

i am obsessed with these trees

DD

my spot

this is what i would look like to you if i carried you inside my bag

I'm 30 bitch.

And you know what? It's not really any different than I felt when I was 29. Turns out it's just another day in the life.

The weekend couldn't have been better. Big shoutouts to my BsAs crew for making it a good 30. The weekend started off right at work with Robin and Will and an Alfajores-tasting. BJ won with the brownie flavor. Smart man that one.

Saturday Nells showed up at my place at 11 for a little trip to the farmer's market. Spring is finally starting to show its face around here, and that made my birthday even better! We bought some picnic goods, grabbed some mate, and headed to the park to meet up with D. Clark. Why can't every day be Saturday? And why can't I spend every day laying in the grass in the sun, playing patty cake games with Nells? After a while, the wind kicked up and the cold took over, so we stopped for a beer, then headed home to prepare ourselves for the night.

My preparations consisted of a massive self dance party in the kitchen before showering and heading out. I wonder if my neighbors ever sneak a peek at my dance parties through our ceiling window. Not everyone thinks I'm normal. We met up at Las Cabras for an amazing parilla dinner, and ended up sitting outside, talking, laughing, and drinking wine until about 2am. I am so blessed to have my group of friends here, and so thankful I was able to share such a monumental birthday with my loves.

After dinner, a failed dancing attempt, and a bar out of Fernet, I decided the universe was telling me the night was over, and headed home. Sunday I headed over to Nelle and D's place, where we sat around for hours talking about what kind of food to order, finally agreeing to hit the supermarket and be less lazy. We beat the grocery store lind waiting odds, by strategically placing Nells in line, and made it out in record time. Derek facilitated home-made taco pizza, and then I went home and ordered my favorite ice cream. (Have I told you about the ice cream here yet? I forget. But it's the best ever. And they deliver it to your door. You just call, order your flavors, and 20 minutes later it's there. Danger.)

I really do make 30 look good.

picnic action + vanity fair from nells' care package

concentrating on numbers

Nerek

my BsAs bffs

i love this photo. cheese.

our romantic sidewalk spot....it was FREEZING

sharing my birthday desert after i got my fill obviously

my ladies, Drea, Libbs, and Taalke

The whole crew. Love you guys.

riquisimo

dulce de leche con brownie, chocolate moroc y chocolate suiza

Ode to my 20s.

Dearest 20s. You've done me right, taught me about the world, helped me find who I am. Frustrated me. Made me happy. Taught me to let go, but also let me hang on. You introduced me to some of my best friends in the world. You let me free, but then brought me back down to earth. We hid from life for a while, then faced it head on. We took risks, looked life in the face, and said hey life, bring it on. we taught each other that the only way to get what you want is to make it happen. With you I learned that ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE. We grew up, became an adult. But you still let me sleep with my childhood stuffed raccoon, Rocky without making fun of me.

You showed me what I want, what I'll take, and more importantly, the things I'm not willing to settle for. To keep dreaming and never stop thinking, learning, or wondering. That it's never late to teach an old dog new tricks. Sometimes it's ok to eat ice cream for dinner, but not every day. That I can make a difference if I put my mind to it, and that the grass isn't ALWAYS greener, but sometimes it is. To listen to myself, my voice, my intuition. To feel love, to choose how I want to live. That I can be happy as long as I choose to do so. That change is scary, but a necessary requirement for growth. Not to take life so seriously, and that there is balance if I seek it. To surround myself with people and things that enrich my every day and make me a better person. That my family and friends, not matter how far I wander, are always with me in my heart, and that their love is what makes me me. 

It's been a ride to say the least. I'll never forget you or all we did together. But it's time for me to go. I'm moving on up to 30. 

If there's one thing I've most learned from you, it's not to take one single moment for granted. But if I do, could you knock on 30's door and remind us it's all as it was meant to  be? Cause sometimes if I'm honest, 30 kinda freaks me out. 

Can it be true?

Today at work I received an email from a prospective student asking me about help for DELE preparation. The DELE is an internationally recognized test for Spanish proficiency, and is broken down into levels, A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, and C2, A1 being more beginner, and C2 being way advanced.

Out of curiosity, I jumped on the Cervantes DELE site, and took the placement test. Once you finish they recommend which level test you should sign up for. So I took the test, a series of 60 multiple choice questions, 2 reading comprehension parts, and a listening comprehension exercise. It's nothing compared to the actual test, but gives them an idea of your level. And guess what craziness I discovered when I hit the submit test button?

Yes. You're reading that right. It said that I could sign up to take the C1 level test. Now, in the grand scheme of things, and the greater scope of the real test that takes a full afternoon to complete, that's nothing. But in my personal quest for greatness and fluency in Spanish, it's a pretty big victory.

The road to fluency in another language is hard to define. Because how do you really know when you're fluent? Is it as simple as being functional in everyday situations and conversations? Do you have to be able to write a master's thesis in your second language? There must be thousands of levels of fluency. It's a tricky question with unclear answers.

My journey in this other language has been exciting, frustrating, lonely, eye-opening, hopeful, and everything in between. In making the decision to live in Buenos Aires, and being stubborn in my Spanish-only mindset, I've had moments of complete and total alienation. I've had moments of realization that I have to give a little on the ONLY SPANISH ALL THE TIME rule in order to make some friends so I'm not so alone. To make money, I have to work in a mostly English speaking job.

Sure I could go elsewhere for more of an "immersion" experience, but Buenos Aires seems a city of opportunity. Not like the way NYC is a city of opportunity (or what it was for me), with it's go go go, now now now mentality. (And don't worry, I haven't fallen out of love with NYC) But it's giving me an opportunity to live a life I've always wanted to live. A little more tranquilo. And since I'm not working 70+ hours per week, I'm getting the chance to check out some things I never had time for or was always fearful to try. I'm looking my life-long internal struggle in the face and trying to find what it is that I really want. How do I want to spend my time? What activities, things and people make me happy. How do I balance between my practical career-focused mindset and that of my bohemian creative side and quest for a life less defined by my job?

Well. I don't know exactly, but I think this experience is teaching me. Living with Mana and Diego shows me a lifestyle I always wanted. Less focused on money, promotions, and having the coolest cell phone. Nights filled with good chats, possible side projects, and impromptu jam sessions. They just live. Plain and Simple. I learn so much by observing them in their day to day. They always have another perspective or way at looking at the world, constantly encouraging me to let go of my fears and do that which makes me happy.

Yes, I've spent the last year doing that. But getting settled in one place again brings up my struggle. Call it good vs evil, creativity vs economics. But I'm taking risks. Reaching out for the creative side, making shit happen. Stepping outside of the box if you will.

How you ask? I'm taking a design/art class with a private teacher two days per week. I'm learning how to use all those fancy computer design programs, but all in Spanish with a brilliant woman who inspires and encourages my burried creative side. I've taken on the role of being a band manager. Seriously. In Spanish. With my super-talented roommate, Diego. We're experimenting, and trying to see how it works. But I think we're going to be successful. That, or I'm going to be Murray in Flight of the Conchords. All in good time. I'm also surrounded by talented people working on their own side project or dream projects. Everyone's got something going on. I feel inspired every day by their hopefulness and willingness to go for it.

Next up. 30.

Oh, Hey September

So it's September. Which means a lot of things. A. Time moves way too quickly. B. 30 is quickly approaching. C. I haven't blogged in a loooooong time. D. Spring is almost here. E. I'm going home for a visit in 3 weeks and some change.

I hate winter. It doesn't matter where I live. Next time I decide to travel and live in a foreign country I'm either going to pick a place with no winter, or if a place with winter, not move there during the aforementioned winter. This is part of the reason I've not been blogging. The winter has gotten to me. Also, the reality that I'm living in a new place with a relatively small number of friends got me down a little. Living in a new place is hard. Add to that the part where it's another country and you don't understand every cultural aspect, and therefore you misunderstand some things. So I've had my head up my own ass the past few weeks, kind of feeling sorry for myself. Hey, I can admit that. It's not always as dreamy as it seems to be me. But with the return of some spring-like weather, and a new attitude, things are looking up again, and I'm back to being me, and thinking positive. But it hasn't all been debbie downer, and August wasn't so bad. Here's a lil' recap. 

Masa Critica, or Critical Mass. I was always curious about this event when I lived in New York. I've heard mixed reviews about the spectacle, so I decided to see what it was all about. I met up with a group of cyclists at the school where I work and we headed out. We met at the Obelisco in Buenos Aires, and were greeted by a good number of cycling lovers. As a side note we were also in the company of the Justin Bieber fan club. A gaggle of young girls wearing purple Bieber shirts, screaming, running back and forth across the teeming avenue, then gathering in the center of the plaza to sing songs and confess their Bieber love. Complete with a chap of about 23 with a megaphone organizing the young ladies. We assumed that JB was in town for a show and the girls were waiting for the tour bus to pass, but were quickly corrected and told that this happens every Sunday. Justin Bieber, Argentina LOVES you. 

do you think he gets paid to do this, or he's a Bieber lover too?

Back to the matter at hand. For those of you who don't know, Critical Mass is an event that takes place in cities all over the world one day a month. It's a gathering of cyclists to ride through the city as a group to promote cycling. The mass takes up one side of the road, so it can be upsetting to automobile drivers because they're at the mercy of the cyclists, so probably better to refrain from driving that day to save yourself mass frustration. The idea is that bicycles become the traffic. We spent 3 hours biking through the city, with people from every walk of life. Old people, little kids, racing bikes, spandex, old bikes, red bikes, blue bikes, you get the picture. The vibe is super chill with bike excitement all around. Highlights - a group of 4 guys with instruments strapped to their bikes serenading the crowd as they pedaled on, and the top, a guy who attached a huge speaker to the back of his bike, and provided us with the bike-dancing soundtrack we needed to do it in style. I tried to stay as close to him as possible the whole time. When he played "Move This" by Technotronic I nearly rode Bida into a parked car I was so excited. I felt like a little kid again, slowly riding through the city and chatting with whoever rode up next to me. It was a blast, but I can understand why people look at it negatively (especially those in cars). While the idea is to promote bicycles as a form of transportation in a positive way, some people take it too far. Like one guy who thought it would be cool to cross to the other side of the street (the one with oncoming traffic) and weave between the oncoming cars. I couldn't watch for fear that he would become a pancake then and there. I closed my eyes, but realized that's not safe when you're riding a bike. So I just focused back on the music man. In order to keep the mass together for the whole ride, people at the front of the pack block intersections, which angers cars with a green light who can't go. Regardless, it was a great experience, and I can't wait to do it again this month!

sun setting over the mass

heading through Palermo

Riding through tunnels on bikes at night is boss

The final stretch back to the Obelisco

Cheeseburgers. I love them. So does Pati. I have proved to her that the best hamburger in the world does not come from McDonalds. One Sunday I went and picked up what were rumored to be the best burgers in the city from a place called The Office. When Pati took the first bite, she was a believer! I continue to visit her every week, and am so happy to have her as my BsAs family.

Look at that beautiful burger. Eat that McDonalds!

Music and Jamming. In other news, some of you may remember this epic post and moment of my life (which still remains one of my greatest accomplishments)….

It's like that now.

I shared it with Mana and Diego, and two days later, as we sat around the kitchen doing math problems (sort of a long story), Diego suggested a little jam sesh. He held the beat on the box drum, mana with the shakers, and I rapped Outkast. I felt almost as nervous then as I did when I did it for real. We've had a few more late nite sessions. I love them. 

Getting Older...In Style. We celebrated Chiang's 32 birthday with another kickass all-night dance party at The Roxy. I had another bout with the hiccups and again, Derek saved me with his secret hiccup cure. The photo we took looks exactly like the last one because I'm wearing the same clothes all the time. I can't wait to change it up a bit!

It's harder than it looks, because I find it hard not to giggle.

Chug...chug...chug

group photo before getting our dance on...Happy Bday Chiang!

The birthday boy feeling the bday love

notice Nelly getting down....and she wasn't going to go out that night

Getting to know the city. I spent a day wandering in San Telmo, where I ate my favorite thing, homemade bread stuffed with meat and cheese. Yum! I then hit up a few museums and caught an Indie film at the MALBA. 

on the bus on the way trying to make the best of the cold winter day

san telmo antique market

this band was awesome, and i've never seen someone move like him with a guitar (and a ciggie most times)

a little che graffiti

I made a poor woman's cobb salad sub hotdogs for chicken

Dancing. Last week I went to a Salsa class with my friend Libby, from Australia, who I met at the school. Yes, I know that I should take a Tango class since this is Buenos Aires, and I will, but man I love the salsa. Next time I'll stay for the Milonga.

my sad attempt to take a photo of the place

More Bikes. Last Saturday I hit up a bike tour with my buddies at Biking Buenos Aires with some of the students from the school. I had to cut out early for my rock climbing class in the gloomy rain, and need to complete a full tour with those guys. 

Troopers - city bike tour in the rain

Rock climbing. Speaking of rock climbing, Nells and I finished our course today, the final lesson being that of how to repel yourself from the top of the rock wall without a safety below, totally on your own. It was amazing. I'm so ready to get out on a real rock. We're going to plan a trip with Hernan at the beginning of October. Seems so far away though. I want to go this minute!

what goes up

must come down

Nells and I all harnessed up

Spanish. I have been back in Spanish class. It's amazing how much you lose when you take a month and a half off classes and start spending a good part of your day in English. The class has helped me to rediscover better grammar, although sometimes it just doesn't come out right. 

The supermarket. I continue to strengthen my patience skills in the supermarket line. Someday I'll learn the optimal hours to food shop, but until then, it's meditation and Namaste.

Getting older again. This week's task is to plan the big 30. One more week of my 20s. Bring it on decade #4. The job talk we'll save for another day. I haven't showered in 2 days, and it's time to make that magic happen.

When I sum the month up like this, i realize i haven't had it so bad. Glad to have my head upright again.